BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK, Texas — We arrived at the Rio Grande Village campground yesterday after a 120-mile drive from Alpine. The campground is tucked in the east corner of the park, only a short hike from the banks of the Rio Grande River and Mexico on the other side.
This morning we hiked into Boquillas Canyon, carved through the rock over the years by the river. The trail follows the north bank, with rock walls rising hundreds of feet above us. The water was clear and the canyon quiet except for the sound of birds perched high on the rocks. Elizabeth and I agreed it was one of the most beautiful spots we’ve hiked to.
On this hike and the trails near our campground, you can see an assortment of souvenir artifacts left in certain spots along the trail–such as ceramic cups, bead bracelets, wire and bead figures of scorpions–with a cup nearby to place your money if you buy something. On the Boquillas Canyon trail you can also buy tacos or tamales from the small group of Mexicans waiting just on the other side of the river. A small sign said they will deliver the food.
Our time in the park so far has not gone entirely as planned. I thought I had booked us a regular campsite with hook ups–at least water and electricity–but Elizabeth informed me from the fine print in the confirmation email as we were about to set off yesterday that it was a campsite with no hookups! So this will be our first experience with what RVers call “boondocking”–getting by on stored water, a 12-volt battery, and no sewer hook up.
Boondocking, also called dry camping, is like tent camping except you can sit on real furniture, use a propane gas stove, and enjoy hot and cold running water through a battery-powered pump. But this morning, the water pump seemed to be drawing extra power and our battery has lost much of its charge. At least we are camped right across the road from the bathrooms and fresh water spout. Our four days here may be more rustic than we planned!
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During our two nights in Alpine, Texas, the highlight was a guided tour of the heavens Saturday night by an entertaining young man at the McDonald Observatory north of Fort Davis. The amphitheater outside the visitor’s center is 6,200 feet above sea level and far from any lighted human settlements. For an hour, armed with a laser pointer, the guide showed us the highlights of the brilliant night sky, including the constellations, the North Star, Mars, the Orion nebula, and the Subaru star cluster. And he explained how the position of the stars had shifted over millennia because of the earth’s wobbling on its axis. After the presentation I asked him if he was studying for a Ph.D. in astronomy. He said he was an economics major who did this as a side job!
On Sunday we attended our first “Cowboy Church” a few miles east of Alpine. The folks were friendly and the preacher and many of those attending wore cowboy hats and boots. The service was very basic–a woman with guitar sang a few gospel songs before and after the sermon. The sermon contained solid teaching on Jesus and Nicodemus, with the frequent Texas winds providing a good sermon illustration of the workings of the Holy Spirit.
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Internet connection is spotty in Big Bend, but we’ve managed to find good cell service at the Chisos Basin Lodge and Visitors Center. As I file this blog post, we’re looking up at the sunlit peaks of the Chisos Mountains.
Daniel Griswold's Blog 
Dan and Elizabeth, We are enjoying your exciting adventure. “Boondocking” and Cowboy Church! Wow! You are enjoying an interesting journey. So glad you’re able to get away and do this together. Thanks for sharing all the thoughts and the pictures.